Buying a Used Campervan (UK): The Beginner-Friendly Checklist Guide

Let’s keep this simple: when you buy a second-hand campervan, you’re buying a van and a tiny house at the same time.

Most people check the van… then forget to properly check the “house” (damp, wiring, gas, water, appliances). That’s where the big bills hide.

Use the checklists below in order. Take your time. If the seller tries to rush you, that’s useful information too.

The 10-minute “Is it even worth viewing?” checklist

Before you drive across the country, ask these:

Quick questions to ask the seller

  • Why are you selling, and how long have you owned it?
  • Any damp ever found or repaired?
  • What doesn’t work right now? (fridge/heater/hob/water pump/charging/hook-up)
  • When was it last serviced? Any big jobs done? (belts, clutch, brakes)
  • Any accident damage or insurance repairs?
  • Do you have service invoices?

Do these online checks first (UK)

  • Ask to see the V5C log book and make sure details match the van. (gov.uk)
  • Check MOT status and MOT history (look for repeat advisories like corrosion). (gov.uk)

What to bring to the viewing (no fancy kit required)

  • Torch/headtorch
  • Kitchen roll / wipes
  • Gloves
  • Phone (photos + video)
  • Notepad (or paste the checklist into Notes)

Optional but handy: tyre tread gauge and a little mirror.

Viewing checklist (do it in this order)

1) First impression (30 seconds)

  • Does it smell musty the moment you open the door?
  • Any obvious leaks, mould, or stains?
  • Is the seller relaxed about you taking your time?

If your gut says “this feels off”, listen to it.

2) Paperwork & identity checklist (do this early)

This avoids the worst mistakes.

☐ V5C present, and details match the vehicle (gov.uk)
☐ VIN on the van matches the V5C (ask where to find it and check)
☐ MOT history matches the story (mileage trend + repeated advisories) (gov.uk)
☐ Service history includes invoices (not just “yeah it’s been done”)
☐ Manuals for key conversion kit (charger/inverter/heater/fridge/solar controller)

3) Exterior & bodywork checklist (water always starts outside)

Body + rust (all campervans)

☐ Panel gaps look even (no obvious crash repair)

☐ Check rust: arches, sills, jacking points, door bottoms
☐ Look underneath for fresh underseal everywhere (can hide corrosion)
☐ Windscreen chips/cracks

Roof, seals & cut-outs (camper-specific)

☐ Around roof vents, skylights, solar cable entries: any cracking sealant?
☐ Any “sealant blobs” that look like a quick fix?

Tyres & stance

☐ Tyres: even wear + no sidewall cracking?
☐ Van sits level (a sagging corner can mean suspension issues)

4) Mechanical checklist (beginner version)

Cold start (ask them not to warm it up first)

☐ Starts cleanly without loads of throttle
☐ Idles without hunting/stalling
☐ No warning lights staying on
☐ No loud knocking/squealing

Quick under-bonnet glance

☐ Oil level OK (not empty)
☐ Coolant looks normal (not oily sludge)
☐ No obvious wet leaks

Test drive checklist (10–20 minutes)

Do a simple loop: town → 50–60mph → bumpy road → reverse park.

☐ Clutch feels normal (not slipping, not biting right at the top
☐ Gears select smoothly (no crunching
☐ Brakes feel straight and stable (no big vibration)
☐ Steering doesn’t wander
☐ Temp stays stable once warmed up

After the drive:

☐ Look underneath again for fresh drips

Habitation (“the house bit”) checklist

5) Damp check (your #1 priority)

Look, smell, and press (gently).

☐ Musty smell?
☐ Staining around windows, rooflights, corners, vents
☐ Soft spots in walls/floor (especially by doors + kitchen + shower area)
☐ Lift cushions/mattress and check corners/edges

Walk-away rule (simple):
If it smells damp and you can feel softness and the seller can’t explain it clearly → leave.

6) Electrics check (12V + 240V)

Start with “does it power the basics?”

12V

☐ Interior lights work
☐ Water pump runs
☐ USB/12V sockets work (if fitted)
☐ Any control panel shows sensible readings (if fitted)

240V hook-up (if fitted)

☐ Ask them to demonstrate hook-up powering sockets
☐ Look for an RCD/consumer unit setup (basic safety expectation)

7) Gas checklist (safety first)

Gas is one area where “it’s probably fine” is not good enough.

☐ Hob/heater/fridge ignite properly (if fitted)
☐ No obvious corrosion or DIY bodges on fittings
☐ Ask when it was last inspected/serviced (and by who)

Useful safety reference: Gas Safe Register’s caravan/motorhome gas safety guidance. (gassaferegister.co.uk)

8) Water checklist

☐ Fresh tank fills without leaks
☐ Pump doesn’t run constantly (can hint at leaks)
☐ Taps run
☐ Waste outlet/valves work
☐ Water heater (if fitted) powers on as advertised

9) Appliance sanity check (quick wins)

☐ Fridge starts correctly (and ideally begins cooling)
☐ Heater powers on
☐ Roof fan/vents operate
☐ Bed and seat mechanisms work smoothly

Red flags (walk away, no guilt)

  • Won’t show V5C / discourages checks (gov.uk)
  • MOT history doesn’t match the “well looked after” story (gov.uk)
  • Strong damp smell + soft panels/floor + vague answers
  • Messy DIY wiring with no fuses/labels
  • Gas system can’t be demonstrated safely (gassaferegister.co.uk)

How to negotiate the price (without being awkward)

Negotiation is easiest when you treat it like a mini-report, not a debate.

Step 1: Make a quick “deal sheet”

On your phone, create three lists:

  • Must fix (safety/structural): damp, serious rust, braking issues
  • Soon: tyres, battery, suspension bushes, heater service
  • Nice-to-have: cosmetics, minor trim issues

Add photos next to each item.

Step 2: Turn faults into an offer (not an argument)

Instead of: “It’s overpriced.”
Say: “I like it. But it needs X and Y. I’m happy to buy today—if the price reflects that.”

Step 3: Use the 3-option offer (works weirdly well)

  • Option A: “You fix X (with proof), I pay £__.”
  • Option B: “I take it as-is today for £__.”
  • Option C: “If you can’t move on price, no worries—I’ll leave it.”

Step 4: Ask for proof, not promises

If they say “easy fix”:

  • “Great—can you show me the invoice / recent inspection / working demo?”

Step 5: Dealer vs private (quick note)

If you buy from a business and there’s a serious issue, there are formal dispute routes (for example, The Motor Ombudsman can help with disputes with accredited businesses). (themotorombudsman.org)
(Still do all the checks above—don’t rely on “it’ll be fine”.)

Copy/paste master checklist (printable)

Before viewing

☐ V5C confirmed (gov.uk)
☐ MOT status/history checked (gov.uk)
☐ Seller answered damp/electrics/gas/servicing clearly

Exterior

☐ Rust checked: arches/sills/jacking points/door bottoms
☐ Roof/seals/vents checked for cracks and messy sealant
☐ Tyres checked (wear + cracking)

Mechanical

☐ Cold start OK; no warning lights
☐ Drive: clutch/gears/brakes/steering feel healthy
☐ No new leaks after drive

Habitation

☐ Damp signs checked (smell/stains/soft spots)
☐ 12V basics tested (lights/pump/sockets)
☐ Hook-up tested (if fitted)
☐ Gas appliances demonstrated safely (gassaferegister.co.uk)
☐ Water system tested (pump/taps/drains)